The eagle eyed reader will have noticed in "Boot Shiny Bits 3" that just peeking into the left hand edge of the photo there is a windscreen. What a mammoth task that was. There are some holes cut in the body, according to the manual "pre cut at the factory to ensure accuracy". That one had us laughing for a while, honestly the manual is a work of comedy genius.
There's some bracketry under the dash to put the legs of the windscreen frame on but they don't really line up very well. I made a template as per dax instructions to get the angle of the windscreen right and had to enlarge the holes in the body to get everything to fit. Went ok in the end though.
How hard can it be? A blog of a Dax De Dion build and continuous fettling + "improvements"
Friday, 24 August 2012
Boot Shiny Bits 3
I was starting to get a bit fed up with the block of wood as a boot stay so I dug around in the bin of spare parts and found the boot stays. A few rivets, a bit of Wurth adhesive and half an hour later and the boot now stays open of its own accord!
Tuesday, 24 July 2012
Loom 3 - dash
I had already fitted the relays and fuse box but I noticed whilst hunting a separate wiring problem that one of the terminals in one of the relay holders wasn't properly engaged and because of the way I had mounted them it was very difficult to get behind the relay holders to sort the terminals out. Needless to say, inspired by the good progress recently I decided to try mounting the relays again.
It used to look like this:
I modified my bodge-bracket to this:
It used to look like this:
I modified my bodge-bracket to this:
A handy bit of door seal was used to protect the wires going to the relay holders. The finished job now looks like this:
Obviously the rest of the loom hasnt been nailed down yet, and the jumble on the left is the back of the fuse box. I just can't find a way to make it neat and tidy as there is other stuff to go in, and I'm limited by how PWS made the loom as to where things are without major loom surgery which I don't fancy doing. It still doesn't look brilliant but at least its much easier to get to the terminals for future trouble shooting.
Boot Shiny Bits 2
Small update to the last post after taking a couple more photos to show the boot lock and power to the number plate light.
Saturday, 21 July 2012
Boot Shiny Bits
Long post. A full day in the garage today and some good progress made with the boot hinges, lock and number plate light.
First of all, following the instructions in the build manual, drill holes for boot hinges.
First of all, following the instructions in the build manual, drill holes for boot hinges.
Deviating from the build manual slightly, the dremel was then applied to the holes as I had drilled them all in the wrong place.
There we go, that's better. It took a number of fittings and re-fittings to work out that the hinges are actually handed left and right to match the curve of the body.
Boot stay sorted. Boot lip seal in (very annoying) Boot lock in, lots of dremel action. Its not quite in the centre so it will take some "adjustment" later. The loop on the boot floor had to be stood off about 6mm which is convenient as when I come to fit the carpet it can fit neatly underneath the loop. The white cable in the picture above was looped inside the boot skin when it was manufactured, to feed the number plate light. I was going to use it to draw through some other wire but it appears to be glued securely in so I pushed some heatshrink on to the end and put grommets where it goes through the skin to prevent it rubbing.
This was a bit annoying. The boot has been stood leaning against the garage wall for about a year, and over that time its bent out of shape, you can see the gap below where it doesn't follow the contour of the body.
I made the fit of the lock catch purposely very tight so you have to really push the boot down hard so it would apply stress to the boot lid and pull it back into shape. Being fibreglass, although the resin has now hardened since it was new, its still pretty flexible. The garage has been very, very hot recently meaning the resin may soften a little so I'll leave it for a few weeks and see if it permanently regains the correct shape. If that doesn't work I may have to encourage it with a heat gun.
You can see in the picture above the force from the tight fit when closed has improved it a bit so we'll see how it goes.
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